Baztan Valley, Spain: A Complete Travel Guide

Imagine green rolling hills,
cozy houses made out of stone,
the smoke of the chimneys
coming out into the chilly air.
Welcome to the Baztan Valley.
a magical place, hidden in the north of Spain.
A region rich in myths and tradition,
the home of witches and legendary figures.

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How to Get to Baztan VALLEY

Baztan is located in the north of Spain, right in the heart of the Atlantic Pyrenees and below the border with France. Reaching the valley from the closest main cities, San Sebastián or Pamplona, takes about 1 hour by car. To access it, you will need to take the N-121-A and N-121-B roads which cross the entire area up to the French border.

You can also choose to take a bus from San Sebastián or Pamplona. The company is called La Baztanesa and you can check their bus schedules on their webpage (info available in Spanish and Basque).

How to Get Around in Baztan VALLEY

Whether you decide to fly to San Sebastián or Pamplona and take a bus, or do the entire journey by car, you will find that the high-quality roads make it really easy to get anywhere. 

We recommend having your own car once in the valley, since it will give you much more freedom to reach remote areas. You’ll be mainly using the N-121-B road except when reaching the furthest villages in the mountains. Getting around by car is very easy and you will find many signs on the road which will help you find the main villages and touristic spots.

If you decide to use public transport, just note that there is only one company (La Baztanesa) that stops in some of those villages on the way from/to San Sebastian and Pamplona. So basically there is no “Baztan bus”, making it difficult to get to certain villages. We don’t want you to miss out on the unique magic of these remote areas, so we definitely recommend having a car to get around.

When to Visit Baztan Valley

Baztan has something to offer in every season. Personally we recommend spring and autumn for nature lovers who enjoy the quietness of the off-season. For those looking for events and festivals, summer is the best season. However, it’s best to avoid August since it’s the busiest and warmest month. Here’s the best of every season:

• Spring (March-May): Perfect to enjoy the green landscapes, hiking and exploring the lovely villages. Temperatures range between 10 and 20°C with occasional rain.
• Summer (June-August): The best season for outdoor activities and local festivals, with temperatures around 25-30ºC. However, it can be busier, especially in August.
• Autumn (September-November): Ideal to enjoy fall colors, taking photographs and tasting local gastronomy. Temperatures ranging between 15 and 25°C.
• Winter (December-February): Perfect for cultural visits and cozy stays in rural houses. The landscape becomes foggy giving the valley a mystical atmosphere. Temperatures get cooler (0-15ºC), with occasional snow in higher areas.

Where to Stay in Baztan Valley

Baztan valley offers a wide variety of accommodations, from cozy rural suites and B&Bs, to traditional hotels. Here’s a selection of our most recommended villages to stay:

1. ELIZONDO – The capital of Baztan Valley is an active town with plenty of shops, restaurants and cultural attractions. It’s the perfect base for travelers who want basic services but still be able to enjoy nature.

2. AMAIUR – A much smaller village than Elizondo, ideal for those looking for picturesque and authentic places. You will love the stone houses, the castle, the stunning landscape and the peaceful vibes.

3. ZUGARRAMURDI – Probably one of the most magical villages of the entire valley. Mostly known for its legendary witch cave and mysterious history, Zugarramurdi is the perfect spot for those interested in folklore and mythology.

4. ARIZCUN – A small but beautiful village located nearby Xorroxin Waterfall. It’s famous for its whitewashed houses and local traditions, making it the ideal stay for culture and nature lovers.

5. ERRATZU – This village is the starting point of the Xorroxin Waterfall trail. The cozy traditional houses are surrounded by lush forests, so it makes a great stay for travelers who love outdoor adventures and relaxation.

We have put together a selection of hotels and apartments to help you organize your trip:

Affordable

Markulluko Borda Rural Suites: These stylish suites blend modern comfort with rustic charm, offering panoramic mountain views, a well-equipped kitchen and a peaceful setting. They’re ideal for a romantic getaway or a quiet retreat.

Legate Appartment: This modern and well-equipped apartment is ideal for couples or small groups. It features a stylish interior, a fully equipped kitchen and beautiful views of the valley. The perfect choice for travelers seeking comfort and independence in a peaceful area.

MID-RANGE

Casa Angiz Etxea: A charming rural house, perfect for a peaceful stay. It offers spacious, cozy rooms, a beautiful garden, mountain views and a warm atmosphere. Perfect for relaxing after exploring nearby towns and trails.

Beretaberri Appartment: This was our personal choice, since we wanted the comfort of our own kitchen and living room, in addition to our room. We really loved our stay, from its strategic location to its simple yet elegant decoration, so totally recommend it!

LUXURY

Behin Batean: This luxurious house is located in Ziga. It includes 6 bedrooms, a garden with BBQ, a fully equipped kitchen and stunning views of the valley.

Casa Larrañea: A beautiful mountain house with garden views. It includes 7 bedrooms, so it’s the perfect place if you’re traveling with family or friends.

We really encourage you to book in advance, especially during high seasons like Christmas and the summer holidays.

Top Places to Visit in Baztan Valley

Hidden between green hills and misty forests, the Baztán Valley is a place where time slows down, traditions last and each village feels like a storybook come to life. During my trip through this valley, I found more than scenic landscapes. I found myths, legendary stories, flavors and charming little towns full of character. These are the villages that left their mark on me:

1. AMAIUR – Also known as Maya, it’s one of the loveliest villages of the valley. From the entrance you will notice right away that it’s a singular place, with big family stone houses, little fountains and the ruins of Amaiur Castle on top of a hill. This medieval village has had historical significance in Basque resistance. I invite you to enjoy a slow stroll through its peaceful & photogenic streets.

2. BERROETA – A lesser-known gem, surrounded by forests. It’s been an important village as it was part of the known “camino real” (royal way). It’s a very quiet and authentic village, perfect for nature lovers and those wanting to disconnect and enjoy local rural architecture.

3. DONEZTEBE – This one’s a bigger town with more activity like bars, restaurants, small shops… Moreover it offers great riverside walks, so it’s a perfect base to explore the surrounding nature. Enjoy an afternoon walk along the river and through its cobblestone streets.

4. ELBETE – Right next to Elizondo, Elbete is a tiny and cozy village, perfect for a quick stop. Visit the main square and admire the picturesque houses. Don’t miss the interior court, where you can see locals playing pelota vasca, a type of court sport played with a ball using one’s hand.

5. ELIZONDO – It’s the capital of the valley, which means you will find a more vibrant vibe. Its streets are filled with shops, cafés, restaurants, libraries,… All decorated with the beautiful surrounding landscape and the river Bidasoa running through the town. Locals love gathering in the terraces, especially around Plaza los Fueros. Don’t miss the church Iglesia de Santiago with its beautiful façade & towers.

6. ERRATZU – Most visitors come to this town for the Xorroxin waterfall (you’ll find more details in the next section). However, I feel like Erratzu deserves its own place in this list. Quiet, deeply rooted in Basque traditions and surrounded by hills and trails. Take a walk through its peaceful streets, have a break by the river and observe local life taking place around you.

7. GARTZAIN – Although this village is slightly isolated, it’s the perfect place if you want to experience the authentic Baztan valley, far from the touristy spots. One of Gartzain’s highlights is its large traditional Basque houses (called caseríos). The surrounding green hills and the agricultural feel of the village make it the perfect scenery for slow travel, walks or even bike rides.

8. SARA – Just across the border with France, Sara (or Sare) is known for its prehistoric caves and folklore. It offers a blend of French and Basque. The vibe here is different, with the influence of French language and culture. Take a walk through its streets and observe the similarities and the differences with the other towns.

9. URDAX – Another good spot for travelers who love a mix of nature and mysticism. Urdax is linked to ancient pilgrimage routes, and it’s famous for its monastery and the Urdazubi caves. Quick note: we noticed that restaurants in Urdax are more expensive than in other villages.

10. ZUBIETA – This village gets its name from the word “zubieta”, which means “bridge site” in Basque. It’s a reference to the medieval bridge that connects the road to the village. Zubieta is renowned for its unique carnival and ancient traditions, like the “joaldunak” (a traditional character of Navarre culture that appears before carnival). Except in the festival season, it’s mostly a quiet town with lots of dogs walking around.

11. ZUGARRAMURDI – Probably most people’s favorite, Zugarramurdi totally deserves its fame. It’s known as the village of the witches, for those interested in this topic, I highly recommend visiting the museum. It explores the social and cultural origins of local legends of witchcraft and the tragic influence of the Inquisition. Another must see is Zugarramurdi’s cave, with an impressive structure and shape created by nature. You can get a ticket for both the museum and the cave for 11€. We recommend booking online, as tourists plan their visit ahead and entries are limited.

Top Things to Do in Baztan Valley

From hiking trails to cultural museums, here is a list of our favorite activities to experience the essence of Baztan Valley:

• Infernuko Errota – Imagine a fairytale forest, with beautiful old trees and the river passing by. This 1,4 km-trail leads to an old mill called Infernuko Errota, which means hell’s mill in Basque. It’s a very easy trail that literally anyone can do.

We recommend parking your car by the Etxebertzeko Borda restaurant, you will quickly see the trail sign. One more recommendation, if you want to enjoy the forest on your own, we advise starting early, at around 10 am. 

• Xorroxin waterfalls – This is a longer trail than the one above, but so worth it! The circular trail begins in the village of Erratzu, after the bridge over the Aranea river. You must park your car in specific parking areas, for which you need to book your spot online (as of April 2025, it’s free). It’s a fairly easy trail, although at some points it can get a bit muddy so bring hiking shoes to stay safe. You will walk through lush forests, crossing the river a few times. The views are absolutely wonderful, with traditional houses and sheep in the background. Families love this trail and they usually bring their pets along. At the end, a 4 metre waterfall awaits you. Don’t forget to take a photo, but be careful with the slippery rocks!

• Zugarramurdi caves & Witch museum – This visit is mandatory. First, the cave is a truly magical place, especially when you imagine all the witches’ covens that took place. Second, the Witch museum located nearby offers a trip back to those events, with proven historical facts, and an insight into their lives. 

• Señorío de Bertiz Nature Park – This lush protected forest covers over 2.000 hectares and it’s a peaceful oasis, ideal for travelers who love hiking, nature & photography. Once a noble estate (“Señorío”), it was gifted to the Navarra government in 1949. You can still see traces of the estate’s past: the elegant manor house, the fountains and iron gates… The mix of heritage and wilderness makes it a unique place. While it’s free to enter most of the park, you will need to pay a small fee (3€ per adult) to visit the botanical garden, which showcases exotic and native plant species in a romantic setting. This time we didn’t do any hiking trails, but apparently there’s something for each level, from easy walks to more difficult treks. You can get more information at the entrance of the garden.

• Urdax caves – If there’s one bad thing about traveling during the winter holidays is that some places may be closed. That’s what happened to us the day we wanted to visit the Urdax caves. However, we’d still recommend visiting. Check their webpage for more info, they also offer guided tours in Spanish, French and Basque.

• Santxotena museum – This museum was on our bucket list, but unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to visit. If you love art & nature, it is a must. It features unique art pieces set in a peaceful park.

Where to Eat in Baztan Valley

During our 6-day trip to Baztan Valley we tried several restaurants. These are our top picks to eat and to buy local products:

• Kortariko Gasna (Orabidea) – This local cheese factory offers guided visits and a shop where you can taste their exquisite products. 

• Santamaria Restaurant (Doneztebe) – The biggest portions I’ve ever seen are served in this restaurant. They don’t take reservations, and you can guess why! It gets full easily, so be ready to wait a little bit if you arrive late. They’ve got a 18€ menu that includes everything, from starters to desserts and drinks. We all ordered different local dishes and were pleased to see they were all delicious. 

• Graxiana Restaurant (Zugarramurdi) – Very kind service and delicious menu for 16€ to 22€, depending on which one you choose. Again, we prioritized local dishes and everything was great. We ended up eating here twice, as it’s a rather big restaurant, meaning they’ve got more tables available.

• Eguzkialde Ostatua (Elizondo) – Don’t expect a super fancy restaurant, but rather a simple yet modern bar/small restaurant. Their menu is very affordable, if I remember correctly we paid less than 15€ (it included everything). As I was feeling a little bit cold, I ordered their homemade soup which was delicious. Moreover, they were able to adapt my main course to make it vegetarian.

Final tips for a wonderful trip to baztan valley

Baztan Valley is an enchanting place, thanks to its rich history and its stunning landscape. Witchcraft stories, beautiful green hills and lovely stone houses melt together in this magical corner of Navarra, Spain. We encourage you to plan your visit ahead, especially your accommodation as well as museums & caves entries. Hoping this post inspires you to explore this region, you won’t regret it!

Happy traveling!